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Hey, Deb
Thought I'd give you an
update on my CG doings. Contributed two CG blogs to OntheFly.com's
"Modern Gentleman's Blog" about CG.
Eager to hear your opinion
and those of any others who would like to post on your site
or on "The Modern Gentleman's Blog."
http://www.onthefly.com/blog/gentleman/?page=1
Wednesday Apr 16, 2008
 Was
Cary Grant a "Modern Gentleman?" Part I
More than a year after my biography, “Cary Grant: A
Celebration of Style,” was published, and after writing
more than a few articles about him during that time, I
return again to the topic.
But I do so not because of
any obsession with the iconic movie star or lack of interest
in a new subject or even to shamelessly plug my book. I do
so because Cary Grant is of enduring interest to you, the
movie fan, the sartorialist, the connoisseur, the keen-eyed
shopper.
Rarely does a day go by that
I do not receive a question about him sent to my web site
email address. The appetite for information about him seems
insatiable, a testament to his timeless appeal and his
mystifying achievement as a man of style.
The questions are far
ranging, running the gamut from the arcane, such as, ““How
much starch did he like in his shirts” (very little), the
merely curious, “Which brand of watch did he wear?” (Cartier)
to those typical of film fans, such as, “Who was his
favorite actress?” (Grace Kelly).
But the question that
interests me now is one posed by On the Fly founder &
fellow blogger, Ami Arad: “Was Cary Grant a modern
gentleman?” For the answer, tune in next week...
Posted at 10:10AM Apr 16,
2008 by Richard Torregrossa in General | Comments[0]
Tuesday Apr 22, 2008
Cary Grant - Modern
Gentleman, Part II
 Last
week, we explored a question at the intersection of On The
Fly's point-of-view and my book: Was Cary Grant a
"modern gentleman"? It’s an intriguing question
because Ami would consider Mr. Grant an icon of "Old
School" style -- an actor who not only made movies
during Hollywood’s golden era but who epitomized it. And
that was a very long time ago.
But the arc of his life, from
Archibald Leach, a poor and awkward kid from the English
provinces, to the suave movie star at the top of Hollywood’s
A-list, is essentially a story about a very modern obsession—
the makeover.
By dint of a shrewd
understanding of the transformative power of style—and by
style I include not only how he wore his suits and ties, but
how he walked and talked, where he spent his days off, and
the quality of his mind and character—he became the man he
wanted to be, a change so profound it is, I believe, largely
the reason for the continuing interest in him as not only a
movie star but as an historical figure.
His journey is one from which
we all can learn—not as a dry academic exercise but as a
kind of entertaining guide that reflects our own interests
and goals. One of which is the quest for the best and most
tantalizingly unique products at the best value.
In Grant’s day finding the
best but not necessarily the most expensive objects was
truly a quest, an abiding passion that meant exploring the
shops and showrooms in cities all over the world.
Visiting Rome, he discovered
the luxurious bespoke suits of Caraceni. In Milan he
selected cashmere and silk sweaters by Pasquale Avon Celli,
a genius with fabric who made a splash in the 1920s with his
silk three-button polo shirt whose legendary quality was
achieved by the importation of looms with 36 needles that
were then only used to produce women’s stockings.
Grant, most notably, wears a
long-sleeved striped Avon Celli polo in “To Catch a Thief”
which he paired with a red foulard for one of the most
memorable looks in film history.
When in London he visited
Aquascutum for one of their signature rain coats, Hawes
& Curtis for a new glen-plaid suit, Lobb or Tuczek in
Mayfair for a fitting with the legendary George Cleverley
who might make him a new pair of benchmade tasseled loafers,
and then off for window-shopping in the Burlington Arcade,
searching its shops for the new and the novel, from
hand-crafted chocolates to a nifty new pair of cuff links.
His scents were selected from
Floris, Creed and Aqua di Parma. In New York he might make a
stop in Brooks Brothers for one of their off-the-wrack
button-down white shirts he liked so much. Then to Tiffany
and Verdura whose help he enlisted for the jewelry he
designed specially for his wife Barbara.
Later in his life he
discovered shirtmakers and tailors in Asia and his garments
would travel back and forth from Beverly Hills to Hong Kong
with alteration instructions until the garments met his
exacting standards. Adjustments of 1/8th of an inch on a
shirt sleeve were not unusual.
Accumulating a fine wardrobe
was far more perilous than it is for fans of On The Fly.
When the Andrea Doria sunk off the coast of Nantucket on
July 25, 1956, Grant’s third wife, Betsy Drake, was
onboard with a batch of his custom-made shirts that she was
transporting from Europe. Betsy was rescued but his shirts
went down with the ship.
There were far fewer luxury
brands then than there are today, so there were far fewer
choices, and of course they were not nearly as accessible
for him as they are for us, thanks to the wonders of
technology.
Perhaps the image we have of
Grant is one of staunch conservatism, a man dressed more
like a banker than a daring sartorialist. (It’s that damn
gray suit in “North by Northwest”!). But this is not
really accurate. He was very cutting-edge, very
forward-thinking in just about everything he did.
Was Cary Grant a modern
gentleman? Indeed he was. In fact, I think he had what I
would call the essential quality of the modern gentleman—a
passion for style, innovation, and quality that is shared by
fans of On the Fly who explore this site not as a chore but
as a joyful journey, though one without all the travel
expenses Mr. Grant no doubt incurred.
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